Thursday, March 1, 2012

Housing and Bedding (Part III)




  • Housing and Bedding

  • ═════════════════════
    ·            One hamster, or more?
    ·            Recommended environmental conditions
    ·            Cage size
    ·            Substrate
    ·            Nesting
    ·            Hygiene
    ·            UPDATE: Housing Hamsters Together
    ═════════════════════

  • One hamster, or more?

  • Syrian hamsters are solitary animals and can only be kept one to a cage. Dwarf Russian hamsters are more social, and can live in groups as long as they are introduced when young, and the cage is large enough. However once they reach sexual maturity the males may begin to fight. Males and females kept together will reproduce very quickly and fathers will have to be removed from the cage. For these reasons we only recommend 1 hamster of any type per cage. (6)

    Russian, Roborovski and Chinese hamsters can squeeze through small places so are best kept in a tank or aquarium no smaller than 60cm x 30cm floor space, by 30cm tall. The tank needs a securely fitted wire lid to allow ventilation and prevent escape. (12)

    Proper housing is a major factor in maintaining healthy hamsters. The psychosocial well being of the pets must be a primary consideration. Hamsters can be housed within enclosures made of wire, stainless steel, durable plastic or glass. The last 3 materials are preferred because they resist corrosion. Wood and similar materials should not be used to construct enclosures because they are difficult to clean and cannot withstand the destructive gnawing of rodents. (1)





    Many pet stores sell durable colored plastic enclosures that include attached horizontal and
    vertical tubes through which the hamster can crawl for exercise. These are suitable enclosures for hamsters. (1)

    The enclosure must be built so the hamsters cannot escape. This is an especially important consideration because hamsters are proficient ‘escape artists’. In fact, once free of their enclosure, they are very difficult to find and rarely return to it. A hamster free to roam the house is a real liability because it will chew and gnaw on electrical and telephone cords, and household furnishings. (1)

    The enclosure must also be free of sharp edges and other potential hazards. It must be roomy enough to allow normal activities and breeding, if the latter is desired. One reference recommends at least 20 square inches of floor area per hamster, and a cage height of at least 6 inches. (1)

    Hamsters seem to do best when housed in enclosures with solid floors, relatively deep
    bedding, and abundant nesting material. The enclosure should be easy to clean, well lighted, and adequately ventilated. Bedding must be clean, nontoxic, absorbent, relatively dust-free and easy to replace. (1)






  • Cage size

  • Cage size requirements, as mandated by the AWA and recommended in the NIH Guide, are based on age, weight and reproductive status.
    The maximum cage size is allotted to nursing hamsters. Currently, the interior height of all cages, not including lid space, is 6 in. (15.24 cm) (7,8). The minimum floor space is based on weight. In general, for every 20 g increase in body weight over 60 g, an additional 3 sq. in (7.62 sq. cm) of floor space is required. Keep in mind that the AWA allows for the use of caging that does not meet the specific space requirements, if the cage allows for species-typical behavior and is approved by the Institutional Animal Care and Use Committee.(13)


    Shredded paper, wood shavings, and processed corncob are preferred bedding materials. Cotton or shredded tissue paper is suitable nesting material. (1)


  • Substrate

  • There are many different types of substrate that can be used to line the bottom of your hamsters home. Traditionally Wood Shavings (or Sawdust) is used, though there are alternatives to this which can be a big help to anyone with an allergy to them. The substrate needs to be at least 3cm deep over the base of the cage, this is so it will absorb your hamsters urine, plus provide stimulation for the hamster of digging into it.(18)

    Different substrates' pros and cons. (18)



  • Nesting

  • A handful of nesting should be provided for the hamster to nest in, it does not matter whether this is in some form of hamster nesting area or left in a corner of the cage. The hamster will use this to make a soft nest to sleep in and to hide away in. There are many different forms of nesting available to buy, or things that can be used as nesting.(18)

    Different nestings' pros and cons. (18)
      
    Hamsters are primarily nocturnal (night-active), though they may exhibit relatively short periods of activity throughout the day. During their active period, hamsters cat and exercise. (1)

    Hamsters seem to especially enjoy exercise wheels and other activities. The plastic enclosures equipped with horizontal and vertical tubes/tunnels mentioned above are highly recommended for this reason. Hamsters seem to really enjoy running through them. They also enjoy tin cans opened at both ends and boxes with multiple openings through which they can crawl. (1)

    Pet hamsters are usually housed singly. Sexually mature females must not be housed
    together because of their inevitable aggressiveness toward each other. Breeding females are larger than males and tend to be aggressive toward them. For this reason, males must be removed from the enclosure after breeding has been completed. (1)

    In general, facilities and equipment adequate for housing rats and mice are satisfactory for Syrian hamsters with a few exceptions. However, mouse
    cages that are only 5 in. tall do not meet the requirements of the Animal Welfare Act. Also, all hamsters are great escape artists which necessitates the use of well-constructed, securely fastened caging. A light:dark cycle of 14 hours light to 10 hours dark is optimal for reproduction in Syrian hamsters, as opposed to the 12:12 cycle normally used for rats and mice (2, 4). Syrian hamsters also prefer to have food supplied on the floor of the cage instead of in a hopper. (2)


  • Hygiene

  • The frequency with which the enclosure is cleaned depends on its design, the materials out of which it is made, and the number of hamsters within it. As a general rule of thumb, the enclosure and all cage ‘furniture’ should be cleaned and disinfected once weekly. The food and water containers should be cleaned and disinfected once daily. More than one set of containers should be maintained, and the soiled set should be washed in a dishwasher, if possible. Vigorous scrubbing of the enclosure and furniture with hot water and soap and a thorough rinse should be followed by use of a disinfectant. (2)




  • HOUSING HAMSTERS TOGETHER (22)

    • Do not keep Syrians together at all as they fight ('til death!)
    • Only Dwarf Campbell/WW/Robos can be kept together and must be below 2 months if from different source, otherwise barrier sniffing introduction/ Vanilla Essence technique*** is required, separate immediately if fighting occurs
    • Do not mix different species together in a cage (NOTE: Syrian/ Campbell/ Winter Whites / Roborovskis are different species)
    • Large tub and small cage method (by HH's Sleepy_lancs) (22): Get a clean large tub (make sure its without any smell). Get a small cage (enough to fit into the large tub but not too small or you have to clean the area very often which makes it in-effective). Put the new hamster into the cage and the other hamster in the tub. Ensure that the hamster in the cage can smell each other through the wire. Noses may touch but they can't harm each other. Everyday, switch their places for 2 weeks. After two weeks, take away the small cage and watch them. They shouldn't be fighting... or else increase the length of period.


  • ***Vanilla Essence Technique: You should introduce two hamsters together by first rubbing vanilla essence to both of your hamsters or rubbing it to the interiors of their cage / enclosure. Hamster owners claim that this is effective since it will confuse their pets' smell and eventually decrease or lose their territorial instinct.



  • SET-UP AND HABITAT MYTHS AND MISCONCEPTIONS
  • (by HH's Member Christmas_hamster) (22)


    Myth: Hamsters are small animals, so they need small cages. (22)

    Truth: Hamsters may be small in size but they move and explore a lot. In the wild it is recorded that hamsters will often run up to eight miles in one night. While a wheel certainly is a valuable tool in helping a hamster to burn some energy and get some exercise, it does not mean that a cage can be small. Hamsters still require room to explore, play, dig, hoard food, make a nest and just move around. In a small cage not all of this can be provided. Some studies even suggest that a hamster needs up to one square metre (or about 10.5 square feet) of floorspace in order to provide the hamster with enough room to do what it needs to do. If someone can provide that much room for their hamsters then I think the hamster can only benefit from it, though the absolute minimum cage size is generally agreed to be 360 square inches (2322 square cm). Also keep in mind that hamsters need more floorspace in a cage than they do height. (22)

    Myth: Aquariums are a bad cage choice for hamsters as they do not provide adequate ventilation. (22)

    Truth: Aquariums make great cages for hamsters provided that the lid allows proper ventilation. The lid should be made of mesh or wire, not glass or plastic thus allowing the air to flow through. The biggest concern with keeping animals, such as rats, in aquariums is that the ammonia would build up and cause respiratory problems., but hamsters do not produce enough ammonia in their urine for this to be as much of a concern. However, as with all animals, it is recommended to change the soiled bedding when it starts to smell - whether they're housed in a tank or a wire cage. (22)

    ^BACK TO THE TOP^
    >>>GO TO THE MAIN MENU>>>

    No comments:

    Post a Comment

    speak up!
    what do think about this?

    Related Posts Plugin for WordPress, Blogger...