Thursday, March 1, 2012

Food and Water (Part V)



  • HAMSTER NUTRITION

    ═════════════════════
    ·                     Food and Water
    ·                     *Cheek Pouch
    ·                     Hoarding

    ·                     UPDATE: Hamster Diet List
    ·                     UPDATE: List of Plants regarded as Unsafe
    ·                     Hamsters' Urine
    ·                     Lack of Food and Water

    ·                     UPDATE: Food and Nutrition Myths and Misconceptions
    ·                     SPECIAL: Nutritional Information of Sunflower Seeds and Meal Worms
    ═════════════════════


    Food and Water


    Good-quality food and fresh, clean water must be readily available at all times. The exact nutritional requirements of the hamster are not known. In the wild, they are omnivorous, feeding on plants, seeds, fruits and insects. Pet hamsters are best fed commercial rat or mouse diets containing at least 16% crude protein. These foods are usually available as dry blocks or pellets. These commercial diets can be supplemented with small amounts of dry, sugar-free breakfast cereals, whole-wheat bread, uncooked pasta, cooked chicken, tuna fish, cheese, fresh fruits and vegetables. The last 2 items must be thoroughly washed to avoid exposing pet hamsters to pesticide residues and possible bacterial contamination. (1)

    Pet stores sell prepared hamster diets available in boxes or bags. These diets contain
    large quantities of seeds and items rich in oils. Consequently, if improperly stored, they become rancid and lose their nutritive value. Furthermore, these oil-rich items promote obesity. These types of foods can be offered as a supplement to the commercial rat or mouse diets mentioned above. (1)

    All food should be provided in heavy ceramic crocks that resist tipping. The sides of the crocks should be high enough to keep bedding and fecal material out of the food, or the crocks should be elevated slightly above the bedding. (1)

    Water is most easily made available and kept free from contamination by providing it in one or more water bottles equipped with ‘sipper’ tubes. Make certain the ends of the tubes are positioned low enough to allow all residents within the enclosure (especially juvenile hamsters over 1 week old) easy access to them. Also make certain that very young hamsters are strong enough to obtain water from these sipper tubes. (1)


    Average food consumption is 10 to 15 g of commercial pelleted rodent food per day for adult hamsters. Hamsters drink approximately 5 ml of water per 100 g of body weight per day. This rate of water consumption is similar to the gerbil, another rodent species indigenous to the desert. In comparison, rats drink 10 ml of water per 100 g of body weight each day.(14)










  • *Cheek Pouch



  • A unique feature of Syrian hamsters is the well- developed pair of buccal or cheek pouches beneath the skin on the lateral sides of the head. In the picture,
    the cheek pouch has been reverted for examination. (2)

    The pouches are used to carry food and nesting material. They also provide an easily accessible site for tumor transplantation and induction. The cheek pouches have
    been termed immunologically privileged sites because tumors can be transplanted or induced and not readily rejected by the hamster's immune
    system. The reason for this unique property is poorly understood. It has been attributed to inadequate lymphocytic drainage; however, there are lymph
    vessels present in the cheek pouches . The composition of the connective tissue of the pouches is believed to play a role in tumor maintenance. (2)


  • Hoarding

  • Hamsters are well-known for collecting and storing food in their burrows. Food is collected in the large cheek pouches and carried back to the burrow. A hamster can stuff an amazing amount of food into its pouches and when packed full, the pouches can extend back beyond the level of the shoulder blades. The winter food stores can be enormous; one common hamster's store was found to contain 90kg of cereals, pulses, seeds and root vegetables! Poorer Chinese peasants have been known to make a living by digging up the grain stores of grey hamsters. (7)



  • HAMSTER DIET LIST
    (based on HH's Fresh Food/Diet List Forum Topic by CanineCavyLover, HoppingHammy, Christmas_Hamster, Jordyn and LunarFlame.)

    RECOMMENDED REGULAR DIET:

    • DAILY:
      • 2 tablespoons of regular seed mix (or refer to lists) with hamster diet pellets

    • EVERY OTHER NIGHT:
      • Tiny pinch of flaxseeds, oats, and wheatgerm added to seed mix
      • Nickel size of 3-4 different types of veggies (refer to lists)

    • EVERY 3 DAYS:
      • Dime-sized watery veggies (not for Dwarves or VERY RARELY)/sugary veggies
      • 1 or 2 pieces Dime-sized fruit can be given every 3-4 days or once a week (or as you think fits into your hamsters' lifestyle) (not for Dwarves or VERY RARELY)

    • TWICE A WEEK (preferably Monday and Friday)
      • Dime-sized meat/protein food (refer to lists)

    REFERENCE LISTS:

    Key

    Reference Colors


    Vegetables

    List of Vegetables that can be consumed by hamsters.


    Other Foods

    List of other foods that can be consumed by hamsters.


    Meat / Protein Foods

    List of Meat / protein foods that can be consumed by hamsters.


    Fruits

    List of Fruits that can be consumed by some hamsters.


    Never Feed

    List of foods, etc that can NEVER be consumed by hamsters.


  • LIST OF PLANTS REGARDED AS UNSAFE BASED ON READINGS:
  • (by HH's SuzyHomemaker and MissPixy) (22)
    - Buttercup
    - Bluebell
    - Ragwort
    - Elder
    - Lily
    - Tulip
    - Castor oil (or castor bean) plant
    - Aloe vera plant: While listed as a toxic plant by pet organizations such as the ASPCA and the RSPCA, produces a gel which many online communities (and as far as I can tell some veterinary communities as well) to be safe for use and beneficial for small animals with certain skin conditions and/or burns. It would appear that while the plant its self is toxic, the gel inside the plant is not.)
    - Amaryllis
    - Chrysanthemum
    - English ivy
    - Dracaena sanderiana (also known as lucky bamboo or ribbon bamboo)


    ADDITIONAL REMINDERS:

    • A lot of what is on this list can be offered daily. Dry ingredients such as nuts and seeds should be added to your standard daily mix, and then adding vegetables, protein and fruit (Syrians/ Roborovskis ONLY) every few days.
    • Too much of any one thing is also harmful! Offering too much fruits and vegetables can cause diarrhea. The diarrhea is caused by excess moisture, this is not to be confused with wet tail. 
    • Make sure you wash all fruits and vegetables and nuts thoroughly before offering!




  • Hamsters' Urine



  • Hamster urine is milky white because it contains calcium carbonate. The urine is highly concentrated and alkaline, with a normal pH of 8. Because it is highly concentrated and alkaline, the urine adheres to cage surfaces. Cages may need to be treated with an acidic agent to remove urine prior to routine cleaning. Accumulation of hamster urine on cages can lead to foot abrasions or sores. (14)



  • Lack of Food and Water

  • Partial or total neglect of hamsters by their owners is an unfortunate but common problem. Neglectful owners fall to provide adequate supplies of food and water for their pets, and are unaware of any medical problems. Potentially serious dehydration, starvation, stomach ulcers, eating of bedding material, and even cannibalism have all been reported as a result of food and/or water deprivation.
    Sipper tubes often become clogged or continually contact bedding material, thereby draining the water bottles to which they are attached. Water bottles and their delivery tubes must be checked constantly for these problems. (1)

    Parents must set a ‘good example’ for their children and teach them a routine of care and maintenance of their pet hamster. Careful observation and vigilant attention to their hamster’s every need should be emphasized. Neglect to any degree is intolerable and always results in some detriment to the hamsters. (1)




  • FOOD AND NUTRITION MYTHS AND MISCONCEPTIONS
  • (by HH's Member Christmas_hamster) (22)

    Myth: Any seed mix is fine for a hamster.(22)

    Truth: Hamsters, just like any creature, have specific nutrition needs and not all hamster foods are made equally in this regard. The first thing that must be considered is whether you want to use a seed mix or a lab block as your hamster’s staple diet. Both have their advantages and disadvantages. Quality lab blocks provide complete nutrition in compressed blocks of food and do not leave room for hamsters to be picky. However they tend to be rather boring for hamsters. Seed mixes provide variety and if they are mixed well then they also provide complete nutrition. The downside to seed mixes is that unless you leave the food until it is all eaten then the hamster can be picky and might not get all of the nutrition that the mix provides.(22)

    Some things that you need to look for in quality hamster foods include: that the protein percentage is between 17-21% for hamsters over one year of age (for younger hamsters, pregnant hamsters and nursing hamsters a higher protein level is better at about 30-35%), while the fat content is between 4-6%. You do not want a food that has a lot of sweet products such as cane molasses or honey, especially if you have a species of hamster that is prone to diabetes (such as Chinese, Russian Campbell Dwarfs and Winter White Dwarfs.). Specifically with seed mixes you want a mix that is well balanced and isn’t overloaded with fattening foods such as sunflower seeds, peanuts and pumpkin seeds. If you have diabetes-prone hamsters then you also need to watch that there aren’t too many sweet foods such as corn, corn products, peas, carrots, and fruits. If you’re hamster is diabetic then you need to make sure that these foods are picked out and since picking out too much food from a mix can throw it off balance, you want a mix that doesn’t contain a lot of these foods.(22)

    Myth: Sunflower seeds are unhealthy and should only be fed as treats/ not at all.(22)

    Truth: Sunflower seeds are much believed to be unhealthy seeds that are too fattening for hamsters. For years many people believed that they should be avoided or used as the odd treat. The truth is sunflower seeds are actually very healthy. They contain so many essential nutrients that help a hamsters body stay healthy. From heart health to cholesterol-lowering, sunflower seeds really do so much for a hamster’s well being. Now as with any food, moderation is still they key. Too much of a good thing is not healthy either. Ensuring that your hamster receives three to six sunflower seeds a day or so will give your hamster the balance that they need in their diet.(22)

    Myth: If I feed my hamsters meat then they will become cannibals.
    -or-
    If I feed my hamster meat then it will want to eat me.(22)

    Truth: Hamsters are actually omnivores. This means that they can eat both meats and vegetation just like humans. In the wild along with grains and plant matter hamsters will also eat insects. They are capable of eating cooked meats (plain with no spices or flavours) too. They will not become cannibals nor will this make them want to eat you. This is one of those urban myths that really doesn’t even have a reason for being around.(22)



  • SPECIAL: NUTRITIONAL INFORMATION OF SUNFLOWER SEEDS AND MEALWORM (27) (28)


  • SUNFLOWER SEEDS NUTRITIONAL VALUE



    MEAL WORMS NUTRITIONAL VALUE



    1 comment:

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